18 December 2013

Everything You Need To Know About Compound Miter Saw

Compound miter saw is a valuable tool for woodworkers and property developers. It shouldn’t be missing in a DIYer tool box: made up of a big circular saw seated at the edge of a stable lever, very easy to carry around and produce zero errors, and much safer than radial arm saw. It can help make precise cuts on studs, lumbers and baseboards. Let’s talk a little about the clean cuts that this indispensable tool can attain.
  • Miter cuts: An angle cut made by making the saw go around in circles.
  • Bevel cuts: A cut achieved by sloping the blade to rip through the surface of the piece of wood.
  • Compound cuts: A cut attained by doing both miter and bevel cut.

What makes compound miter saws so special is its ability to create compound miter and bevel cuts. Some saws will only bevel to one area but this wonderful saw can be used to cut 2 angles at a go.

Some miter saws have an extra sliding feature and they are called sliding compound miter saws. This added characteristic enables operators to dip the saw into the wood; as the blade drive into the material, vast chunks of wood are cut. Models with this extra quality are highly-priced. 

Compound Miter Saw

Buying a Compound Miter Saw

Choosing the right model for you revolves around the price and purpose of use. But below are the features your pick must have:
  • Dust collection ports: Though not most compound miter saws have good dust collection system, there are some that are very good in collecting saw-dust, try and ask the seller about this, and be sure the response you get is positive about the effectiveness of your pick in corralling sawdust.
  • Superb Fence: A nice feature; should be suitable for both little and large wood, although an additional support may be needed when holding larger stock.
  • Blade Guards: These are designed to protect users from any harm or danger that an operator may experience when the saw is moving, and it also provide easy viewing of the work.
  • Noticeable Scales: Corner joints and sloping edges scales should be correctly aligned and not difficult to understand. The most excellent types of scales are digital.
  • Effortless Sliding: Your pick should have the ability to easily slide back and forth on rails. This feature is only available on sliding compound miter saws. It increases the saw crosscutting ability to more than 12 inches.
  • In-built Laser: This will produce a red light on the cutting region. If you want accurate and cleaner cuts, then go for saws with in-built laser.
  • Portability: Make sure the saw is very easy to carry around because saws that are heavy won’t be an ideal if you want to move it from one job-site to another.
  • Safety Switch: This helps in preventing unpleasant event that may occur from an unexpected or unintentional starting of the saw.
  • Blade Quality: Check the blade and make sure it’s a good one; experienced users claimed that blades with 40 to 80 teeth per inch are the ideal for achieving cleaner cuts.

After doing research on the eleven features given above, I discovered that most compound miter saws available out there still find it difficult to effectively provide two features and that’s—effective dust collection system and good blades. Most buyers may choose to buy high quality blades separately, that is not a bad idea. If you’re lucky to stumble on a good bargain compound miter saw, but with a low quality blade; I don’t think leaving it is a wise thing to do, someone else will certainly come and pick it up! The second issue with most compound miter saw is the ineffectiveness of its dust collection port. There have been no effective solution to this from most manufacturers’ side, but most users found out that attaching the dust port to the vacuum will minimize steady increase of sawdust.

Blade sizes
Compound miter saws usually come in 8”, 10” or 12” models. But most operators believe the 10” models are more suitable than the 8” and 12” models. An 8” models may seems to be too small and lack the capability of cutting angles of a 6” piece of stock on a 45 degree miter while 12” models are highly-priced. If a good 12” compound miter model is within your financial reach; you won’t regret buying it because it comes with a bigger blade size which is a good thing.

How to Use Compound Miter Saws with Maximum Safety

I’m sure you already know that power tools like compound miter saws can be very dangerous and risky. Heeding the below rules will definitely help you to reduce the risks attached to it.
  1. Consider wearing suitable clothes and safety glasses before you start the saw.
  2. An ear shield is indeed needed.
  3. Never for any reason disable the blade guard and always make sure it’s working properly when using it.
  4. Never use blade with dull edges.
  5. Always make sure the saw blade is well fixed to the saw arbor. A poorly installed blade can be awfully fatal. Make this a top priority.
  6. Also, when fixing the saw blade, don’t forget to remove the plug of the saw from the socket.
  7. Don’t get your hands too close to the saw blade; this can put you in a great risk.
  8. Try maintaining a clean saw during operation.
  9. Do not be in haste to finish your work. Hearken to this, and you will minimize mistakes and dangers.
  10. Always make sure the fence is adapted to the cut you want to make.

Following the above tips will not only help you reduce the risks to dangers, but you will also achieve cleaner cuts.

Additional useful tips

While compound miter saws are handy and very easy to move, they tend to be more useful when firmly-fixed to a well built stand.
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16 December 2013

Circular Saw: The Things You Should Know Before Buying

Circular SawCircular saw is without doubt a handy and effective tool for woodworkers and builders! But there are some important tips you must know before purchasing from any store either online or offline. While I won’t be mentioning any brands; expect me to dish-out some juicy information that would help you in choosing the right product you need—so what’s next?

Circular Saw sizes
There are different sizes from 4” and above. Let’s talk a little about these sizes.

  • 4 inch: Good for super light duty cutting.
  • 5 inch: A nice left-handed blade design, it grants users the utmost visibility.
  • 6 ½ inch: Not difficult to use and capable of cutting 2x4 and 4x4 boards in single. The minimal saw size that will rip 2x4 at both 90 degrees and 45 degrees
  • 7 ¼ inch: Nicknamed Skilsaws, is considered as the foundation and most used in the trade. It can be used to cut, rip and frame lumber that is less or equal 2 ¼ inch in hardness. It comes with some blades that can be used to slash through other non-wood materials. 7 ¼ inch circular saw models are highly recommended.
  • 8 and 10 inch: Not an ideal for most individuals in woodworking; used for cutting wood that are 4 inches thick. 
I’m sure you now have a clear picture of which circular saw size is right for your woodworking shop.
Types of Circular Saw
There are 2 types of circular saw:

  • Inline Circular Saw: Also known as sidewinder. It has a motor that rests on the border of the blade. It removes the gear feature and that makes the saw lighter and easy to change position while working. Note that it’s liable to kickbacks when compared to worm drive circular saw.
  • Worm Drive Circular Saw: Heavier due to the gear feature supported, but that can’t match the low kickbacks an operator will experience while using it. Also, it’s the perfect circular saw to use when working with wet lumber.
Knowing the best circular saw?
You may probably be confused with which circular saw is the best. Amps and horsepower are both used to rate circular saws, but using both may lead to more confusions as to which product to buy. So, I’ve decided to choose horsepower ahead of amps because I believe is better. I generally recommend people to buy circular saw with 2 horsepower. Don’t forget that 7 ¼ inch saw is the very common and most used.

Before deciding on which brand to purchase: read many reviews about that product, don’t be too shy to ask questions, there are always people out there willing to give the appropriate answers to our questions. The price may be the main difference between a good and excellent saw.

Circular Saw Features
When buying circular saws, check to see if the below features are included:

  • Safety switch: A simple switch that will let you held the saw until you’re ready to use it.
  • Blade guard: An important safety feature on any saw. It rolls along with the blade when thrusting the saw through the wood, but bounce back to its location when the saw is at a distance.
  • Anti-locking clutch: Prevent wrist injury in situations whereby the blade binds with the wood being drilled.
  • Dust ejector: Blow sawdust away from the user’s face and from the dent where the cut is. 
The above circular saw features are very important and shouldn’t be ignored. I hope this article will help you when checking brands out there. Thanks for reading; you can check out more nice articles on this website.
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14 December 2013

How To Select The Right Sandpaper Grit

Picking the precise sandpaper grit isn’t an easy assignment for some in woodworking. This task applies to both hand and power sanders. Sanding is the beginning stage to finishing your woodworking project.

There are numerous things I must first introduce to you before you can effectively choose the perfect sandpaper grit for your wood piece. Now, don’t leave because I said the word ‘numerous’, every important tips you need have been sketched out on this page, so continue reading—my loyal reader.

Image Credit: Wikipedia.org

What’s the meaning of sandpaper grit?
You may find yourself at the middle of a hardware store, confused about the hard sanding task you’ve got to do! As you give the run around the store, then you’re lucky to come across the roughest sandpaper, I’m sure you’ll want to believe the roughest sandpaper will do it, but it doesn’t work that way. Hence, I had to quickly include this paragraph to explain more about sandpaper grit. Grit is the number of abrasive particles per inch of sandpaper. These numbers range from 24 all the way up to 1000. A lower number of grit means rougher sandpaper, while higher grit number translates to smoother sandpaper.

Sandpaper Grades
This expresses: the quality of the abrasive particles, backing material and the bonding agent. Only 2 types of sandpapers grades exist: Commercial grade
and Industrial grade.

  • Commercial grade: This grade uses low quality abrasive and its back material is made with a Kraft paper which is very low in quality. Also, its bonding agent is just glue joining the abrasive to the paper backing. I don’t recommend you use commercial grade.
  •  Industrial grade: This grade uses high quality materials for all the 3 elements outlined above. Its abrasive particles are durable and without doubt not going to crack like commercial graded sandpaper. The backing body is made using fine cottons, its bonding agent is also better than the commercial graded types. So if you want to achieve a fine finishing; I’m sure you already know that going for industrial graded sandpapers will definitely help in achieving that—you can get them from specific stores.

Sandpapers can also be graded using the terms: “open-coat” or “closed-coat”. Open-coated sandpaper has spaces around the grits, which free up sawdust so it doesn’t meddle with sanding, while on the contrary, closed-coated sandpapers do not have those gaps. Woodworking experts rated open-coated sandpapers as the best, so why not go for them to accomplish perfect finishing with your woodworking project.

Types of sandpaper abrasives 

There are currently 5 common types but not all are being used for woodworking.
  1. Aluminum oxide 
  2. Garnet
  3. Silicon carbide
  4. Ceramic
  5. Glasspaper
The most common types that are being employed in woodworking are Aluminum oxide and Garnet. Let’s talk a little about them so that you can understand their uses.
  • Aluminum Oxide: Most folks in woodworking use Aluminum oxide: its frequently being used with power sanders, always creating fresh sharp edges when it fragments and also last longer than others, which are the reasons why most woodworkers like it. 
  • Garnet: Brownish-red in color but do not last longer like Aluminum oxide but it leaves a good and smoother texture, that’s why some people in woodworking, preferred it to be their first-choice. 
  • Silicon carbide: Not common in woodworking like the above two; good for sanding metals, plastics and paint.
  • Ceramic: I call it rock-like sandpaper because it’s the most solid. Not common in woodworking; some experienced woodworkers claim they sometimes use it to hand shape wood, but it’s not an ideal for a beginner.
  • Glasspaper: Doesn’t have much weight—very light, and can quickly turn into pieces. Not an ideal in woodworking.

Good, you now know the right types of sandpaper to buy—that’s Aluminum oxide and Garnet.

Different Grits of Sandpaper

The below useful tips will quickly let you understand the different sandpaper grits available and their uses.
  • Coarse (40-60): They are commonly used for heavy sanding and stripping, roughing up the surface of the wood. Has a very rough texture. 
  • Medium (80-120): Good for smoothing the surface and removing imperfections on the wood.
  • Fine (150-180): Final smoothing before finishing the wood. It helps in getting rid of any scratches on the wood. This is only applied when the wood surface had gone through the coarse and medium sandpaper grits.
  • Very Fine (220-240): Are used to sand between coats stain to produce a better outlook.
  • Extra Fine (280-320): Helps gets rid of dust spots or particle contamination. To be applied after using Very fine grit.
  • Super Fine (360-600): For removing any blemishes on the surface of the wood; only to be applied on the wood after the coated finish have dried.

Understanding the above sandpaper grit types will help you in achieving a perfect finishing.

“Going through the grits?”

If you’re new to the woodworking planet, you may probably not understand the above sentence written in bold italic. I just want to explain that sentence so that you will not feel lost when a colleague whisper it into your ear. It refers to the series of actions outlined above to accomplishing a great finishing. Yeah! Moving to the next sandpaper is the real meaning. Woodworkers say it to give credence to why it is very important to follow those grits in an orderly manner. It also serves as a warning not to skip any of those grits explained above if you want a nice looking end product.

I hope this article answers all your question regarding buying and choosing the right sandpaper grit for your woodworking project. If you’ve got any more questions or views to share, please don’t hesitate to do that by commenting using the comment box you will find below. Also, don’t forget to check more helpful information you may need on Woodworking Bank site.

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13 December 2013

Simple Guide For Buying The Right Table Saw You Need

Table saw is without doubt one of the most valuable woodworking tool every woodworker must have. There are different kinds you’ll find on the marketer’s websites or stores, but choosing the perfect match for your workshop isn’t an easy task. Following these understandable instructions outlined on this page will definitely assist you in making the right choice. So, stay tuned!

If you are buying table saw for the first time, I want you to be wary, as purchasing the wrong product may not only lead to bad investment, it could also lead to poor quality in output. I’m sure experienced woodworkers already know this before now.

Table saw models

Knowing the models that are available in the market is the first step to ascertain what is right for you. Below are the types of table saws to analyze.
  • Portable table saw—very portable in size and can easily be conveyed around to different locations. There’s not much to what can be done with this kind of saw though.
  • Cabinet table saw—the most potent table saw available. There’s no limit to what can be achieved with this type. But, unlike portable table saw and the others you’ll learn below; it can’t be moved around. It’s very large and bulky; it weighs 600 pounds or more. It’s highly recommended for heavy-duty work. 
  • Contractor’s table saw—larger and its table can be spread or stretch out to make room for more chunk of wood e.g. plywood sheet. It’s an ideal for contractors who move equipments from one job site to another. Lighter than cabinet table saw but requires more than one person to move.
  • Hybrid table saw—seems to be a mixture of both cabinet and contractor’s table saw. It now depends on the manufacturer to blend the features that can be found in the pair in one piece. It’s portable and can easily be conveyed around, but not like a portable table saw.

After reading the above types of table saws available, deciding on which one is the most excellent, perfect match and appropriate for you should be pretty easy. Now it’s time to move to the next section which is the features needed for your preference.

Image Credit: Wikipedia.org

Table saw features

Table saws competent users have pinpointed the below features to be very essential and must be given due consideration when making a purchase. Anticipate paying more cash for brands that are loaded with more features. Trust me; the money is going to be well worth it. The cost is the main determinant for many, but you must try to get as many features if you want to be assured 99% safety.
  • Horsepower: A table saw lacking the required horsepower to cut the piece of wood you’re dealing with is of no benefit. The horsepower is a critical aspect to lookout for when buying. The below hints will help viz. A 1.5 to 2-horsepower table saw will cut any hardwoods below 2 inches in thickness while a 3 to 5-horsepower table saw will beyond any doubt slash through hardwood that’s 3 inches or more in hardness. 
  • Table saw flesh sensing technology: A recent research conducted in the Journal of Hand Surgery disclosed that woodworking equipment creates a little above seven hundred thousand serious injuries to users in a single year, and that’s a bummer you know? I also discovered that about 42% of these injuries originated from the use of table saw. But before you conclude these victims are novices. These are experienced woodworkers who make use of table saw frequently. Please don’t be in whatever way terrified by the above statement; I’m only trying to give more importance and credence to the flesh sensor feature. Purchasing a table saw that comes with flesh sensor will definitely mean more cost, but it can’t be compared to the expenses an emergency room visit will incur. Flesh sensors will halt the blade right away in 0.01 second once in collision with the skin. That will mean a tiny cut than an acute finger cut.
  • Riving knife: This valuable piece of metal just cruises along with the blade as you make your cut. The riving knife holds back boards from contacting the blade making it easy to avoid the wood from kicking back in the direction of the operator. The riving knife is highly recommended and even better than the splitter because it stays in place for more cuts.
  • Magnetic switch: This feature helps the table saw to automatically halt the machine in case of a power failure. It starts working again immediately after the power has been restored. Magnetic switch is a valuable feature every table saw must have. 
  • Kick switch: I won’t approve you use your table saw without the kick switch feature. You can easily turn off the saw by kicking the paddle with your knee while both hands are on the work. A nice tool!
  • Left-tilt blade: Many are used to using right-tilt blades but left-tilt blades offers table saw operators more protection. Proficient users say it creates fewer kickbacks when compared with right-tilt blades. Right-tilt models are very popular and accessible, but you should go for left-tilt blades. 
  • Dust collection: No dust collection system will entirely get rid of dust, but they will help in reducing it to the lowest level. A good dust collection system will help keep your workshop dust-free and this will also cool your saw’s motor. Make dust collection system part of your plans when buying a table saw as it also contributes to the good health of the operator.
  • Miter gauge: Most table saws come with a miter gauge, so be sure to check if this is included in the table saw you are interested in buying. This is also a valuable tool when making cross-cuts. It helps achieve accurate cuts with ease.
A good table saw shouldn’t be difficult to operate. Stay away from brands that are too complex, and go for products that are very easy to use. Accomplishing the task you want done is the most important, also, distance yourself from inexpensive blades because they will only produce poor quality work even when you’re using a solid table saw. Following all these useful tips will help in making the right choice when buying a table saw for your workshop.
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12 December 2013

How To Stain Douglas Fir Wood And Douglas Fir Stain Samples

Discover nice Douglas fir stain samples along with very useful tips on how to stain soft woods like fir.

Before I provide you with some nice Douglas fir stain samples, I’m sure you will want to know the best stain to apply on softwoods like fir. If you want to be assured of its excellent outlook and also protect it from fading and weathering, then choose a quality wood stain that will help protect and embellish your furniture. Below are some nice stains that will help:
Oil-based stains: Pick an oil-based stain that will penetrate below the face of the wood. Oil-based stains will shield your furniture against atmospheric conditions, blemish and fading. An oil-based stain generally makes softwoods lasts longer and only requires a little care.

  • Latex Stains: Choose a latex stain if you want a solid stain that lasts longer and good for outdoor furniture. A latex stain can also be very helpful in removing an old oil-based stain. It can withstand tough weather conditions too. 
  • Gel stains: It’s one of the best choices for fir furniture. Gel stains are very easy to use. Also, don’t forget to keep your Douglas fir furniture away from a moisture environment until the stain applied is perfect.
  • Semitransparent stains: Semitransparent stains are good for enhancing the wood’s natural grain. It’s not wise to use semitransparent stains for outdoor fir furniture. Still, it’s a perfect stain for Douglas fir wood.

How to Stain Douglas Fir Wood

Your Douglas fir furniture needs to be in a perfect or proper condition before you apply any stain on it. That is where sanding is required. Attach 100-grit sandpaper to a hand sanding block. Note that 100-grit sandpaper is the best and going higher won’t produce the result you want. Sanding will take away more wood but that will only leave your fir furniture plane looking glassy. Next, wipe those tiny particles off the surface of your fir furniture using a soft cloth.

Soft woods are used to having holes between them. You may have to fill those little holes before applying any stain. A good wood conditioner is the quick solution to this. It won’t take too long before the surface dry, so this isn’t going to be time-wasting. Generally, it takes fifteen minutes, but don’t forget to read the manufacturer instructions before and after applying.

Now, to apply the stain effectively, a cotton cloth is needed to work it well into the wood. Plunge the cloth into the stain can and apply it on the fir surface immediately. After the furniture has been completely wet with stain, wait for 5-15 minutes to let it dry. When the wood looks dry, wipe the surface and wait for at least 72 hours to see the end result (some stains may require lesser waiting time).

If you’re trying this for the first time, I recommend practicing with an extra piece of Douglas fir wood to prevent common mistakes. This will also help in developing your woodworking skill.
Below are some nice Douglas fir stain samples; to be completely honest with you, I found them on Google images and by following the link given below each sample, you will discover more Douglas fir stain samples viz.

After reading the above simple guide on how to stain Douglas fir furniture, I’m sure you won’t have any problem staining your piece of wood. You’ll find the above Douglas fir stain samples to be very helpful.

Clear VG (Vertical Grain) 3 1/4" Douglas Fir with Antique Stain


Douglas Fir Deck restored then finished  with 2 coat of natural tone stain.
6" select grade recycled Douglas Fir flooring with a stain coat applied
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9 December 2013

Introduction To Wood Carving Tools

To efficiently carve, model, weld or otherwise produce a piece of sculpture, you need to get acquainted with wood carving tools. Chipping away of wood is well-known but it can’t withstand tough conditions such as decay, insect damage and fire. Many people view it as a pleasurable pastime. Children are not excluded from partaking in this fun but make sure you watch and guide them to avoid injuries. Now let’s get ourselves familiarized with those little amazing tools.  

The Wood Carving Tools
Chisels: There are vast array of chisels, made for different purposes and uses. Various kinds of chisels may be constructed in different manners. This can be seen from the blade width and length; structure and stability of the blade. They may have a wooden or plastic handle. Large chisels are used to take off large portion of the wood. In wood carving, one may begin with a larger instrument and gently advance to tinier utensils to finish the detail.

Carving knife: Is much lighter than a chef’s knife making it possible to peel and chop thinner pieces of wood and also free the surface from unevenness.

Gouges: A present-day gouge is very much alike to a chisel other than its blade borders is not flat, however it is bent or crooked in cross section. There are different types of gouges viz.
Outcannel and incannel gouges—an incannel gouge has its angle of the plane of the blade on the exterior boundary of the curve and vice versa for an outcannel gouge.
V-gouges—gouges with angled instead of curved blades.
Gouges are used for carving cavities in wood and sweeping curves.

Coping saw: Is a kind of a hand saw that is made up of slender steel blade, c-shaped, elastic-iron body to which a handle is connected. It is being employed in wood carving for cutting off pieces of wood.

V-tool: Also known as ‘parting’ tool, it offers carvers different angles and functions. Used for parting and highlighting lines. It’s a substantial tool that new carvers must embrace and regard highly.

Veiner: A V gouge with U shape cutting border. If you’re new to wood carving, you may be confused with the difference between V-tool and veiner. Now be free from doubt as they’re not alike at all. The V tool has clear wings on it making it a V shape. For some basis or cause which I don’t know yet, Veiner is the name used for calling #11 gouge.

Sharpening tools: These are the tools essential for keeping our tool edges sharp whether they are knives, chisels or gouges. Sharpening tools are stones and strop. Many new carvers brimming with lots of potentials had collapsed on the roadside as a consequence of dull edges. Some chose to throwaway blades to bypass sharpening or they simply lack the sharpening skill required. Seek the right sharpening method, and you’ll make a thrown away blade knife-like razor.

Some other tools that can be adapted to your wood carving tools collection are:
Mallet: This is very easy to use and appealing to all carvers. Carving mallets helps brings down the energy used when carving to a smaller extent. It also supports the inexperienced in developing mastery in making clean cuts. So there will be no more need for physical force in removing chisels or gouges.
Router: A woodworking instrument for hollowing out an area of a wood. Mostly used for big projects.

Terminology in Wood Carving

Here are some terms you need to get acquainted with. I felt it won’t be right not to talk about these wood carving tools terminologies here because I don’t want you to feel lost in the wood carving world before you even get started.

Back-bent: have convex-shaped curves bending backwards from the shank. Good for clearing undercuts and reeding work.
Bolster: support clasping of the handle to prevent the blade from slipping.
Chisels: termed #1 sweep. Used for perplexing designs and sculpting. Has a straight cutting edge.
Ferrule: a ring or cap put around the tool handle for keeping the wood from slipping. Not all wood carving tools has ferrule, while some wood carving tools ferrule are visible, some are not.
Fish-tail: a chisel or gouge whose rear is similar to the tail-fin of a fish. This wood carving tool performs flawless cuts in firm or close angles without meddling with adjoining edges. It can also be use in place of straight gouge.
Flutter: a straight gouge larger and broader than Veining tools. Termed #11 sweep gouge. Has a U shape cutting edge.
Full-size tools: are the standard gouges that comes in over 300 variations. There are used with hands or mallets.
Gouge: should have come first on the list. A wood carving tool with concave cutting edges.
Long-bent: complemented to straight gouges, has a concave curve along the length of the whole shank of the tool. Can be a gouge , chisel or V-tool. Good for roughing out or hollowing out.
Palm-tools: less expensive wood carving tools for carving small items. Good for starters who just want to have fun sculpting.
Parting tool: also called V-tool, is a unique U shaped wood carving tool for measuring and skewing left or right depending on the cutting desired.
Rockwell hardness: a hardness scale for measuring steel. A Rockwell level of 58 to 61 is the standard for wood working edge tools.
Short-bent: also called spoon gouges, have a straight shank with a concave, spoon shaped bend at the end. This tool reaches into deep and inaccessible areas for the intention of smoothing.
Skew: termed #2 in Sheffield list; has a 60 degree cutting edge. Good for trimming and finishing.
Slyod knife: a knife whose blade is shorter than the handle, used for cutting, trimming, or shaping in wood carving.
Sweep: this term refers to the curvature of a gouge’s cutting edge. Low sweep number like #3 means a not too deep, flat sweep. And high number like #9 is adopted for a deep curved gouge.
Tang: the projection on the blade by which is held firmly in the handle.
Veiner: a full U-gouge, also with U shape, termed #11 sweep.

Wow! I’m sure you’ve now grasp all these terminologies and now familiarized with wood carving tools. You can check-out other useful articles on Woodworking Bank site.
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7 December 2013

Comparing Bamboo and Hardwood Flooring

After taking a brief look, bamboo and hardwood floors may share the same likeness or resemblance. Materials used in hardwood flooring are products of timber while bamboo is a side product of grass; for this reason, they posses some distinguishing features that separates them.

We’ve witnessed fads in floor designs, but bamboo flooring is an exception. Property developers are now integrating it into their building plans. Also, many home owners have strong interest in hardwood flooring because it presents them fancy designs they long for. Meet a home realtor today if you want to validate this, and they will tell you homes that have hardwood flooring will sell quickly at a greater price than home that doesn’t. Below are some characteristics that differentiate bamboo and hardwood flooring.

The Hardness

First let me introduce to you the tool used by the industry for measuring bamboo and hardwood flooring in case you haven’t come across it before—it’s called Janka scale. You can learn more about it by reading Wikipedia Janka hardness test post. 

Bamboo—three types of bamboo are available in the market, and they are natural, carbonized and strand woven bamboos. They all have different hardness. Natural bamboo is the most common type of bamboo. It has hardness value of 1380 on Janka scale. It has a yellowish gold color on the floor.

Carbonized bamboo is dark and caramel in color. This dark color is obtained through carbonization: dark materials are softer when compared to natural bamboo. It has a Janka scale level of 1000-1200. Be aware that carbonized bamboo surface is highly expose to scrapes and marks. Strand woven bamboo flooring is harder and last longer than the other two. It requires extra process to install strand woven bamboo. It has a value of 3000 on the Janka scale and can be liken to the most solid hardwoods on Earth.

Hardwoods—there are different types of hardwood species that can be classified into hard and soft. Red oak was preferred to be the average standard because it can be easily and quickly attained. Looking at the hardwood scale, you’ll see Brazilian walnut (3680), Brazilian Teak (3540) and Redwood (3190) at the top, and if you scroll down to the lower-end of the scale, you’ll find softer species like pine and fir with rating of 600-900.


Hardwood flooring—it gives home owners the opportunity to choose from the myriad species available. Each hardwood breeds a separate look and feel so it won’t be too difficult to find the excellent design that will meet your decoration needs.

Bamboo flooring—the color of bamboo is uncommon; still it can be toned to a dark color through carbonization. Bamboo tends to produce variant colors across the floor. Many may like this while some don’t; it all depends on what your tastes are. This is the most apparent distinctness between bamboo and hardwood floors.


Hardwoods—you can get a softwood and plywood for a dollar. Average hardwoods floor materials can cost $3-$5 per square foot. Exotic hardwood materials can cost $10 and above per square foot.

Bamboo—you can get the materials at $2 to $5 per square foot. Avoid buying cheaper materials because they don’t last long. Cheaper bamboos mostly come from a bad distributor, so invest some time in researching about distributors before you deal with them.

Water Resistance


Bamboo floors—the materials are a little more resistant to water damages than hardwood. It is advisable you clean and keep it dry every time. Delay in doing this can result in the swelling and weakening of the bamboo.

Hardwood floors—aren’t resistant to water like bamboo. Some can react sooner than others; chemical protection is needed for hardwood floors. Sealing hardwood floors can also be a good solution too to make it more resistant to moisture.

Bamboo and hardwood floors are both nice and look beautiful. I’m sure you can now arrive at conclusion on which flooring type to choose. If you’re still confused and still don’t know which one is the best for your home, comment below to share your questions and views.

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